Proposed 12v layout....

[jw2170]

Not sure if this will come out correctly...

This is a draft of the wiring for the 12v on my CT.

Any suggestions on changes that ARE required or any changes that may add to the layout.

I plan to add some 'Watts Up" type meters between the solar panel and battery and between the fuse box and the fridge.


PS Did not work... so unless there is any easy way to show an .xls or .pdf file, I will have to wing it.....LOL.

[robcaz]

Hi Jim & Maree,

If you send me the file to owners @ campertrailers.org (without the gaps) I will add it to the campertrailers.org website for you & link it to the thread.

If you want to wire a Watts Up permanently in line you just need a momentary switch on the power side to cut the power to reset the Watts Up to zero. That is between the solar panel & the battery or between the battery & the fridge outlet.

[jw2170]

I may have found a way...

Print spreadsheet, scan int .jpg and load from photobucket.

memo to self...resize first .....LOL

[robcaz]

Hi Jim,

You did well & beat me putting it up.

You are looking along the right path with your diagram.

Which DC-DC charger are you going to use?

You will find blade fuses are best suited between the battery & accessories. They are also a good idea at the back of a portable solar panel. Redarc DC-DC chargers have been known to melt blade fuses.

Breakers are best suited between the battery & charger ie next to the battery in your vehicle if you are running 6B&S to an anderson or between the DC-DC charger & the battery you are charging in the camper.

Breakers can be thermal auto reset https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/cms_aut ... B2PR_1.JPG

or manual reset https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/cms_aut ... aker_1.JPG

at an amp rating between the output of the charger & the maximum amp capacity of the cable.

A fuse box with an inbuilt positive & negative bus with terminals is very handy too https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/cms_aut ... 5025_1.JPG

The positive & negative battery posts became very crowded especially interconnecting two batteries in parallel, chargers & fusebox. I have found these insulated post invaluable. You can see how I used them in my Redarc BCDC1225 install wiring diagram http://www.campertrailers.org/redarcbcdcinstall5a.jpg

M6 twin post
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/T ... e/p/SZ2094

M8 twin post
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/T ... e/p/SZ2092

M10 single post http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/T ... t/p/SZ2090

Just be careful of Anderson's with an ad that says 'anderson type' as they are usually copies. I have been buying genuine andersons at http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-x-GENUINE ... 3369087522

Please feel free to drop me an email if you would like the different places you can buy 12volt parts at great prices.

[jw2170]

Thanks for all that additional information, Rob.

Will certainly do some follow up on those items...

I was just trying to draw the layout in eXcel.

At this stage, I plan to have an Anderson plug at the end of the wires leading from the 12V charger, the 240V charger and the solar panel and will plug into the Anderson socket on the battery cover depending on which source is being used.

The 12V charger is a Matson 20amp dc to dc.

The Baintec 6 way terminal block has a blade fuse for each item connected.

The 240 V charger is a Matson. I have tried that out and it seems to work very well..

I can obtain genuine Anderson plugs at Jaycar.

As long as I have something set up before the national meet....VBG.

[robcaz]

Hi Jim,

Anderson's at Jaycar are $10 each.

That link I posted has them at $3 each posted. I find they don't last long buying ten at a time as you need two to do a job anyway. Always handy to have a couple on hand to do a quick job.